Well! Are you leaving or not?
My historical playground is the stretch of coastline known as the Axminster to Lyme Regis Undercliff (itself part of the Jurassic Coastline), which has been described as an area of outstanding beauty. I mean, who would want to stop looking at views like this, or learn about its ‘mosaic habitat’ of woodland, scrub, cliffs and a seashore littered with boulders, seakale and rock samphire.
‘Here you must calculate every step and nicely test the mossy hummocks before fully trusting them; finally emerging upon an open plain midway between the sea below and tall cliffs above; a plain where rocks of every shape and size have been hurled down in extraordinary confusion. Here, the explorer requires not a little of the suppleness and agility of the chamois, and growing at last weary of bounding hazardously from crag to crag, climbs with extraordinary labour, past monstrous grey, ivy-grown spires and pinnacles of limestone, up a winding footpath in the face of the cliff, to where the Whitlands Coastguard station looks down upon the tumbled scene. From this point, the coastguard path lies along the cliffs' edge, to where the cliffs die down to the waterside in the deep coombe in whose woods the sea comes lapping at Charton Bay. Here, a limekiln, that looks romantic enough for a castle, stands on the beach, with the dense woods climbing backwards, and in the sky the roofs and tower and chimneys of Rousdon.(1)
Sadly, I do have to leave soon. I cannot sit here all day, can I?
Time is moving on, and I am fast approaching the year 1348. Unfortunately, my ancestor’s manor, overlooking this undercliff, is just forty miles west of Melcombe Regis/Weymouth, and you will know what happened there that year, don’t you!
Perhaps I will spin a few more times before I do get off, because I really don’t want to know if Gilbert Umfreville or his son and daughters succumbed to the Black Death.
- 1. The South Devon Coast - Charles G Harper, London: Chapman & Hall, 1907.
- 2. Today, this manor is known as Charton; however, in 1086 it was Dune, in 1303 it was Down St Leonards and later Down Umfreville.










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