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If You Want To Get Ahead, Get A Hat.

14/2/2018

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​​Cheri by French author Colette is a wonderful book, it is set in Paris in the 1920's and tells the story of a love affair between a young man and a beautiful older woman. This period is my second favourite era, if I couldn't be transported back, just for a moment, to the medieval era, then it would have to be here, a time of La Belle Epoque, the fantastic style of Art Nouveau, delicate and very feminine dresses, and of course those gorgeous hats.
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Every time I watch the film I always wonder why and when we stopped wearing hats as part of our everyday apparel. In photographs of my great aunts, they are always wearing hats and both my grandmothers, in their younger days, they wore them too. We ladies like to wear a fancy hat to a wedding, but on the whole, we have the woolly hat for winter and straw one for the summer - that's it! ​
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The answer to my question of why we no longer wear hats lies in the war years. People stopped wearing hats after the Second World War as the British public did not want reminding of the time they spent in uniform and thought that going hatless would represent a break with the past, the breaking down of the barriers of etiquette initiated a gradual decline in hat wearing. However, the non-wearing of a hat in the institutions of authority and power such as seats of government or law was still a controversial subject. In 1942 the wearing of hats in Law Courts by women was deemed as a matter of such national importance that the Lord Chancellor was forced to consult the Lord Chief Justice, the Master of the Rolls, and the President of the Probate, Divorce, and Admiralty. Examples of this can be found in the records of the Bow Street Police Court, where the Chief Clerk stated that "just as there was no law requiring a prisoner to stand, so there was none making it compulsory for a woman to wear a hat in court—unless it was the principle once enunciated in the Star Chamber that magistrates were gods." and in the Liverpool quarter sessions where the recorder, said that "women could come into his court dressed as they pleased. He wished the officials there to understand that women, whether serving on juries or as witnesses, might dress as they liked in court. There was, he continued, no sort of historic or religious basis for the absurd business of telling women that in court hats must be worn."
​
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As is the norm with the study of history the subject of religion plays its part and surprising it has its say on the subject of the hat. It is mentioned in the bible that men were expected not to wear a hat during worship but women were told to cover their heads. The medieval woman were also told what to wear on their heads. Headdresses were worn for more than just looking attractive, they were worn specifically to cover their hair. The medieval woman's hair was considered an erotic feature and it was especially important that married woman covered their hair with veils as it was legally considered a property of the husband. The medieval lady would wear the conical hat, the circlet or the snood. The male hat of the time was the hood or cowl, the large turban cap was popular but this soon morphed into a small hat with a close turned up brim. Of course, the most famous headgear was the armoured helmet, used as a protection in battle. ​
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Apart from wearing a hat to protect one's head or to deter the lusty medieval man etiquette played a big part in the history of what we do with the hat. 

It is thought that the custom of removing or tipping your hat originates from the aforementioned medieval period, knights would raise their visors or remove their helmets as a gesture of good intent and in the same vein soldiers and the male hat wearing public would also raise their hats to their superiors. It was always the done thing for a man to raise his hat when he met a lady.

Many of these fine old traditions have long since faded into obscurity, and we as a society worse off for it I think. 'Manners' writes William Horman the 16th-century headmaster at Eton and Winchester College 'maketh man.'





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Death of a Mystic

25/8/2017

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​On the 26th August 1785, a body of a dead man was extracted from a shaft that had been sunk into the darkest depths of an Italian fortress, the man's name was Giuseppe Balsamo.
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​To the authorities, the man known as Count Alessandro di Cagliostro was a forger and a fraud, to the easily lead he was an alchemist, a healer and a wizard, but of himself he said

                 “I am not of any time or of any place; beyond time and space my spiritual being lives an eternal existence."

Giuseppe Balsamo was born in the old Jewish quarter of Palermo in Sicily to a family who had suffered from the bankruptcy of an earlier generation. Despite the family lack of money, Balsamo had a good education at a local Catholic monastery where he had a interest in chemistry and physics but an even keener interest in the dark arts, probably the reason he was later expelled. At the age of seventeen, he took his first step into the world of crime, convincing a wealthy goldsmith to part with seventy pieces of silver to fund a venture to find buried treasure that would make them both rich. The goldsmith only received a very large bump on his head and Balsamo, a first class ticket to Malta. It was here in 1766 that he honed his skills as a pharmacist employed by the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, a Catholic religious order and the worlds oldest surviving order of chivalry.

Two years later, Balsamo was in Rome working for the Orsini family, it was here that his 'career' really began, unsatisfied and bored Balsamo began leading a double life, selling magical Egyptian amulets and forged engravings that he passed off as 'antiques.' Now married, he traveled to London, where he met the Comte de Saint Germain, an eighteenth century Walter Mitty, who had an interest in science and the arts and like Balsamo, a practicing occultist.
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​After travelling through much of Europe, Balsamo eventually arrived in France and in 1780 played a major part in what was to become known as The Affair of the Diamond Necklace, a scandal in the court of Louis XVI which severely damaged the reputation of Louis's queen, Marie Antoinette. By implication, she had participated in a crime to defraud the crown jeweler's of the cost of a diamond necklace, as had Balsamo, but no evidence was found to connect him. He was acquitted but made to leave the country. He sailed for England and later he made his way back to Rome where he continued with his criminal activities, but this time associating himself with the wrong people, two of which were spies of the Inquisition.

On 27 December 1789, he was arrested and imprisoned, firstly in the Castle of Santangelo on a charge of freemasonry, his death sentence was commuted to life imprisonment. After many attempts to escape his judges said

             "let him be in placed in perpetual imprisonment in some fortress, closely guarded, with no hope for pardon.”

Balsamo prison turned out to be the Fortress of San Leo, whose high towers can be seen from the valley below. Giuseppe Balsamo had been lowered from a hatch into a narrow, ten metre square room and left to die.

​​No amount of spells or incantations helped him this time.
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You may have seen the 2001 film entitled The Affair of the Necklace where the wonderfully sinister Christopher Walken played Count Cagliostro/Giuseppe Balsamo.
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January 19th, 2016

19/1/2016

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​​El Cid, a medieval Spanish knight, vigorous in battle against the Christians and the Moors was and still is a Spanish hero. He was born Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar in the middle of the eleventh century who famously died during the siege of Valencia.

We all must remember the final scene in the 1961 film El Cid were we watched his body, fitted with armour and set upon his horse, riding into the distance,
 flag flying high. 


Of El Cid it has been written. 

"Tradition and legend have cast a deep shadow over the history of this brave knight, to such an extent that his very existence has been questioned; there is however, no reason to doubt his existence. We must, at the same time regard him as a dual personality, and distinguish between the historical Cid and the legendary Cid. History paints him as a free booter, an unprincipled adventurer, who battled with equal vigour against Christians and Moors; who, to further his own ends, would as soon destroy a Christian church as a Moslem temple; who plundered and slew as much for his own gain as from any patriotic motives. It must be born in mind, however that the facts which discredit him have reached us through hostile Arab historians, and that to do him full justice he should be judged according to the standard of his country in his day. Vastly different indeed is the Cid of romance, legend, and ballad, wherein he is pictured as the tender, loving husband and father; the gentle courageous soldier; the noble, generous conqueror, unswervingly loyal to his country and his king; the man whose name has been an ever-present inspiration to Spanish patriotism. But whatever may have been the real adventures of El Cid Campeador, his name has come down to us in modern times in connection with a long series of heroic achievements in which he stands out as the central figure of the long struggle of Christian Spain against the Moslem hosts."
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Seven Faces of Henry VIII

28/6/2015

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Henry VIII was born on the 28th June 1491 at Greenwich Palace, the second son of Henry VII and Elizabeth of York.
​

Henry's older brother Arthur died in 1502 which left Henry as heir to the throne. On the death of his father on the 22nd of April 1509, Henry became king Henry VIII. Henry was seen as a clever and active young man, he spoke three languages fluently, he was an excellent sportsman too. He played tennis, he wrestled, he liked archery and bowling. Henry also enjoyed hunting, jousting and hawking. Henry, of course is famous for his dealings with women, there were six wives and assorted mistresses who accompanied him through life.

This kings story has kept us enthralled for many years, his exploits viewed on the big screen and on television many many times. Lets have a look at who has played him over the years.
1613 Unknown actor in Shakespeare's Henry VIII
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Henry VIII, Shakespeare's play, was first performed at the Globe. It was this play that literally brought the house down. A cannon shot, that formed part of the scene in the home of Cardinal Wolsey ignited the thatched roof of London's Theatre and the building burnt to the ground. 
1933 Charles Laughton in The Private Life of Henry VIII
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Charles Laughton, in the film The Private Life of Henry VIII, portrays Henry as a pathetic and vain man. The film itself has been described as a
                                                   "Pork Gorging, Head Chopping, Liberty-Taking Romp" 
​

You will know that this is a true statement if you have ever watched the famous banqueting scene. Henry's weight gain is well documented, but this film goes out of its way to give us the wrong impression of Henry. We are shown a sleazy and greedy king, chomping his way though numerous chicken legs and then discarding them over his shoulder. There is some truths here though, we do know that Henry's weight had gradually increased despite his early athleticism, he was a tall man, over six foot with a waist of 39 inches but by the time he had reached his fifties his waist had increased to 52 inches. 

Laugton's Henry is hideous, raucous, and totally unlikable.
1966 Robert Shaw in A Man for all Seasons
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In the 1966 film A Man for all Seasons, Henry VIII was played by Robert Shaw. Shaw's Henry was, for me, the most frightening. 
One minute he is very personable with a loud hearty laugh, the next he is a menacing tyrant. Shaw's Henry is not a bully, but he is clever, his presence is very threatening in the scene in the garden of Thomas More's home. Henry wants to know if More has changed his mind regarding Anne Boleyn, but we know that More could not and would not be swayed, no matter how frightened he was of him, no matter the consequences.

Both Charles Laughton and Robert Shaw show Henry VIII as childlike, where Laughton's Henry is petulant, Shaw's Henry is enthusiastic and spoilt. Robert Shaw was nominated for best actor at the Oscars for this film but it went, quite rightly, to Paul Scofield, for his portrayal of Thomas More, who was the Man for all Seasons. 
1969 Richard Burton in Anne of a Thousand Days
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Richard Burton has to be the Henry you could not help but fall in love with if you were a lady of his court, he is smoldering and rather sexy. I thought he played Henry rather well considering he thought the film was 

                                                                                   "mediocre rubbish"

Where the two previous films focus on Henry as greedy and vain, Anne of a Thousand Days is about possession and love. Burton's Henry is strong and self assured and really wants Anne, but later a stubborn streak causes Henry to be dispassionate on her 'betrayal." Richard Burton's Henry would not write the lines

                   "wishing myself specially and evening in my sweetheart's arms who pretty dukkys I trust shortly to kiss"

his Henry is far more manly than that. Richard Burton as Henry VIII is smoldering and passionate and as far away from the real Henry VIII as I think you could get.
1971 Sid James in Carry On Henry ​
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If Richard Burton's portrayal of Henry VIII in Anne of a Thousand days leaves you a hot under the collar then Sid James's portrayal has quite the opposite effect. So Henry VIII was fond of the chase and this is obvious in all the films but it is only in Carry On Henry that you see him  as a seedy character. Sid James's Henry is certainly that.  

This film is played for laughs and shouldn't really be compared to the others. To be fair to James he was working in the confines of the Carry On ethos, all slapstick and "ooh err missus" and he did write in his biography 

                                                                       "I was really having a go at him"

Nevertheless, not one of the best Henry VIII's around I must say.
1972 Keith Michell in Henry VIII and his Six Wives
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Keith Michell portrayed Henry VIII in the 1972 television series Henry VIII and his Six wives. In the forerunner of the mini series, thirty five years before we were given The Tudors, we are able to look at Henry's life in full and this is achieved as the king
lies dying, and he looks back over his life.  I watched this quite recently and although it doesn't pack a punch it felt real. Michell's young Henry appears exposed at times and is surrounded by elder statesmen and this does make you think, if only for a little while, that maybe he is not all to blame for the way he turned out. 
2007 Jonathan Rhys Meyers in The Tudors
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Well! What can you say about Jonathan Rhys Meyers Henry? Many loved his Henry VIII most called him sexy and I cannot complain too much about this because I have just said the same thing about Richard Burton. But Meyer's just didn't manage to portray the complex character of Henry VIII as Burton did. To be fair to Meyers, times have changed and what is accepted in film and on television today was a no go area in the 1960's and Burton did not have to resort to bump and grind to get the point across that Henry was a virile and passionate man. 

​
Meyers played Henry's larger than life character very well, but take away the all the glitter and the gratuitous rumpy pumpy and you still don't have the real Henry VIII.
2015 Damian Lewis in Wolf Hall
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It was nearly fifty years ago when Robert Shaw played Henry VIII to Paul Scofield's Thomas More, this year Damian Lewis had to play Henry VIII to Mark Rylance's Thomas Cromwell and just like Shaw, Lewis did a terrific job.

Our new Henry was a quiet Henry, a Henry that we have not seen portrayed in this way before. There was no sign of Laughton's Henry who stuffed himself silly, no sign of the menacing tyrant of Shaw's character. None of the buffoonery that was Sid James's character. There was not even the seductiveness of Richard Burton's Henry or the vigor of Meyers character. 

So what about this new Henry?
 
Damian Lewis portrays a grounded Henry VIII, a considered Henry, an intense Henry. In fact, it was hard to see the Henry VIII we have come to know at all in Lewis's performance. Saying that, I thought that this Henry was cunning and manipulative letting everyone think they were all in charge when in fact they were not at all!

So there you have it, seven attempts at presenting King Henry VIII to us. Each portrayal showed us something of the sixteenth century kings character, but are we any nearer knowing the real Henry? Probably not, but as a whole I think the actors  are not far wrong.
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What is in your head when you think about the  Vikings?

26/5/2015

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And what did they do for us?​

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I know I always think of Kirk Douglas in the 1958 film The Vikings or I see them  as warriors, raiding foreign lands in the fur boots and horned helmets. In fact they were a lot more than that, they were the first Europeans to reach America. 
Leif Erikssonson, son of Erik the Red, who had been exiled from Iceland, landed on the coast of America around four hundred before Columbus. ​
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http://meanderingthroughtime.weebly.com/history-blog/who-discovered-america

The Vikings were a fearless group of warriors, sailing the oceans in their magnificent Long/Dragon ships.


These vessels were very fast and allowed a quick attack and fast escape, could be recognized by their square sail and the dragons head on the bow which was to protect against the evil spirits of the sea. 

It has been said that without these great ships the Viking Age would never had happened. 
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The planks on the ships hulls were constructed out of the wood of the oak tree and were held together with string made from wool that had been dipped in tar to prevent leaks. They were made to be able to sail in shallow water, which meant that they could travel up rivers as well as across the sea and these ships could be hauled up on a beach and as previously mentioned enabling the men to be out of the vessel and quickly into the fray.
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No doubt these men were brutal and savage, their name was enough to frighten the people of the lands they were invading. It is in the  Anglo Saxon poem, The Battle of Maldon, that the word Wincing was used to mean a Scandinavian sea raider, giving rise to the word Viking. 

Originally these people farmed and fished and spent much of their time in their own country, it was only in the summer that they ventured across the sea to trade and seek out new lands. However, the year 793 saw the start of the Viking migration from Scandinavia, these men from the north first raided in Britain at Lindisfarne, a small holy island located off the northeast coast of England. Many of the monks were drowned, others killed and the monasteries treasures taken. The following years their raids increased, by 866 they arrived in what they called Jorvik, our city of York, they followed this by attacking hundreds of villages and towns across the whole of the country.

How we perceive the Vikings has much to do with the Victorians, in this era the Norse man was popular, he was much written about, looked at and listened to, men such as  
Sir Walter Scott, William Morris, Edward Elgar and Rudyard Kipling were all Viking enthusiasts.

So what did the Vikings do for us?"
Well, they founded Normandy, therefore you could claim that they invaded us twice!  
​
They gave us the cities of Nottingham, Derby and York.

​They left behind their their language and place names, especially in the north of England.
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Any place name that ends in Thorpe or By means it was once was a Viking settlement and one in thirty three men can claim to be direct descendants from the Norse warriors, that's around 930,000 descendants.

Funnily enough, they never left us those horned helmets, do you know why?

​Because they 
never wore them!








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What Women Want

28/1/2015

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Apart from Dr Suzannah Lipscomb's The Last Days of Ann Boleyn which was shown in January, and Helen Castors She Wolves in 2012 there have been few documentaries on our screens about the lives and talents of women. We never seem to see much about the lives of women much past Elizabeth I. 

However other two programmes I do recall are Lucy Worsley's Harlots, Housewives and Heroines: A 17th Century History for Girls which was a fascinating study of women in Restoration England and the most recent, last year in fact was The Story of Women and Art which was presented by Amanda Vickery. 

In Lucy's programme it was Aphra Behn, the first professional female writer who I remember most and in Amanda's programme it was two women who lived on the peripheries of the art world but whose work was equal to their male contemporaries. These women were Angelica Kauffman and Anne Seymour Darmer. ​
Angelica Kauffman, was a woman who forged herself a successful career in the male dominated world of historical art. Angelica cleverly spotted a 'niche market' that was historical art through a woman's perspective. Secondly, there was sculptress Anne Seymour Darmer, an only child of doting parents, who employed noted sculptors to instruct her, but whose budding new career was damaged by her inheritance spending, drunken, womanising husband.

These two women were brilliant artists so why is it that we not know little about their talents? Florence Hallett, art writer and critic explains:

" the truth is that those of us who do not believe that women lack the talent to become artists have by and large fallen for a bigger and more pernicious lie, that women artists have barely existed at all, so successfully were they shut out from the male realms of education, training and business."

All these women had to work in a world that was predominantly male, and as it has quite rightly been put "misogynistic and medieval in its outlook."

Wouldn't it be nice to see a little bit, no a lot more of the achievements of women on our screens more often.

Thanks to both Lucy and Amanda, please keep up the good work.



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Angelina Kauffman: A Self Portrait
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Anne Seymour Darmer ​
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    After ten years in the workplace I became a mother to three very beautiful daughters, I was fortunate enough to have been able to stay at home and spend my time with them as they grew into the young women they are now. I am still in the position of being able to be at home and pursue all the interests I have previously mentioned. We live in a beautiful Victorian spa town with wooded walks for the dog, lovely shops and a host of lovely people, what more could I ask for.

    All works © Andrea Povey 2014. Please do not reproduce without the expressed written consent of Andrea Povey.

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